Camino Primitivo Stages

I wanted to do something special for my 50th year, and this three-part trip is what I came up with. First, my mom and I enjoyed our 8th annual mother-daughter trip; this time we chose a tour of Sicily and Malta. Second, I had a free week before meeting up with my Camino buddies in Oviedo, so I visited Bay Area friends who retired in Ponferrada, Spain.  I also served as a part-time Hospitalera and taught yoga for pilgrims at the Albergue  San Nicolás de Flüe. And last, but certainly not least, I spent two weeks walking the Camino Primitivo with a wonderful group of pilgrims from Malta. 

In a scallop shell (pun intended!), it was all amazing, and I have returned with a renewed sense of gratitude, faith, love, and awe. It has been said, and I believe it to be true, the Camino doesn’t end when you reach Santiago. It’s the internal Camino that sparks a fire that leads to transformation, often when one returns home.  This is what keeps us pilgrims going on our life’s journey. And returning to Spain for more Caminos! Much of my Camino experience is personal and takes time for me to process. And while I didn’t exactly do a complete digital detox on the Camino, I did unplug and enjoy the experience. This page doesn’t include a thorough route report like I have done for my previous Caminos, the Portugués and Inglés.  But it does have the stages with links to the tracked 3-D route videos and accommodations.

Camino Primitivo 2018 Stages:

Pre-Camino Stay in Oviedo, May 25 & 26:
Hotel Ovetense (double room + breakfast)

Day 1, May 27: Oviedo to Sestiello / Grado 29.4 km (19 miles, includes walk to Naranco)
El Lacayo de Sestiello (double room + breakfast)

Day 2, May 28: Sestiello /Grado to Salas 30.3 km (18.8 miles)
Albergue La Campa (bunks + breakfast)

Day 3, May 29: Salas to Tineo 24.2 km (15 miles)
Hotel Palacio de Meras (double room)

Day 4, May 30: Tineo to Pola de Allande 30.8 km (19 miles)
Hotel La Neuva Allandesa (double room + breakfast)

Day 5, May 31: Pola de Allande to Berducedo 19.5 km (12 miles)
Albergue Camin Antiguo (bunks + bread for breakfast)

Day 6, June 1: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime 22.7 km (14 miles)
Albergue Casa Sánchez (bunks)

Day 7, June 2: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada 29.3 km (18 miles)
Pensión Casa Manolo (double room + breakfast)

Day 8, June 3: Fonsagrada to O Cádavo 27.3 km (17 miles)
Albergue Porta Santa (bunks)

Day 9, June 4: O Cádavo to Lugo 30.2 km (19 miles)
Albergue Casa da Chanca (bunks + breakfast)

Day 10, June 5: Lugo to Ferreira 31 km (19 miles) I skipped this stage so I could explore Lugo instead (6 km). Click here to see the Lugo walls hike video.
Albergue A Nave Ferreira (double room + paella dinner & breakfast)

Day 11, June 6: Ferreira to Melide 22.4 km (14 miles)
Hotel Xaneiro (triple room + breakfast)

Day 12, June 7: Melide to O Pedrouzo 36.8 km (23 miles)
Albergue Edreira (bunks)

Day 13, June 8: O Pedrouzo to Santiago 22.7 km (14 miles)
Hospedería San Martín Pinario (pilgrim double room + breakfast)

Special thanks to the peregrinos from Malta—David, Ivan, James, Joe, John, and Roberto—who provided some of the photos featured in the videos! Follow this blog to get notified when I publish more posts. And feel free to ask me any questions about this or my previous Caminos. I’m here to serve pilgrims, so don’t be shy.  🙂

Map credit:

11 thoughts on “Camino Primitivo Stages

  1. I am loving your writing… I did Camino Frances back in 2015, as my birthday present from my hubby which is paraplegic since ‘67 (Vietnam), I am his caregiver and he knew how much this journey meant to me…So I will keep on reading and will go to FB and will follow your journeys…thanks, Ofelia

    Liked by 1 person

  2. It’s amazing to see how different our Camino Primitivos were…completely different stages, plus we only stayed at one place that was the same, Casa Sánchez 🙂 Look forward to reading more about your experience. I see you missed out on Hospitales! I know the weather wasn’t helpful….

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hola Pablo, Our paths almost crossed! We decided not to do the Hospitales. It was quite overcast that day, so not sure if we would have been able to enjoy the views anyway.
      I thought Casa Sánchez was really nice. I look forward to reading about your experience. 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

      • I sort of wish they would have! It would’ve been cool. I think I was about 4-5 days behind you.

        If you want a short but really difficult Camino, I highly recommend the San Salvador between León and Oviedo. Hospitales was a breeze after the San Salvador.


  3. hello Laurie,
    Planning on the same time on 2019 and trying to figure out how is the whether on the mountains in May-June, can not find the video

    Liked by 1 person

Digame, por favor.

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