Camino Inglés: Neda to Pontedeume

Continued from Exploring Neda.

When I saw Nancy eating breakfast at Pensión Maragoto, she was already packed up and ready to head out for the day. I move a little slower in the morning, so I told her I would see her along the way.  The laundry I had washed and hung on the windows was nice and dry, so I packed up and started walking around 9 a.m. I shot a quick video from the room before I headed out.

(See more details of Pensión Maragoto on previous posts.)

The Neda to Pontedeume stage was 18.7 km (11.6 miles) and followed the Ria de Ferrol for the first segment.

It was a peaceful walk along a boardwalk by the Ferrol river.

Boardwalk along the river in Neda

I walked right by a horse and felt like I was back on the Camino Portugués.

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Camino Inglés: Exploring Neda

Continued from Camino Inglés: Ferrol to Neda

Later in the afternoon, I felt like exploring Neda. I walked along the river to cross a small bridge over the Ria Ferrol.

Long afternoon shadow on freshly mowed grass

Long afternoon shadow on freshly mowed grass

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Camino Inglés: Ferrol to Neda

Continued from First Morning of Camino Inglés in Ferrol

“May the road rise up to meet you. May the wind be always at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face.”

I always loved this Irish blessing. I thought it was a great way for Susan Jagannath to start the chapter for Day One in her guidebook, The Camino Inglés  6 days (or less) to Santiago. I enjoyed reading this guide on my Kindle App before I started my walk each day. I took Susan’s advice to split the first stage and stay in Neda instead of walking all the way to Pontedeume. This allowed me to enjoy a leisurely morning at the Parador, and even shoot this Facebook Live video in the room before I headed out.  Thus, I started my walk out of Ferrol around 11 a.m., which is considered extremely late by Camino standards!

I split the first stage, so my walk was only 15 km (9.5 miles). The distance would have been double, had I walked all the way to Pontedeume.

Below are the photos of my walk leaving Ferrol.

From a distance, I thought there were scuba divers in the calm waters off the beach, but they were fisherman were digging up clams.  Here are a few videos I captured.

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First Morning of Camino Inglés in Ferrol

Continued from Ferrol: Parador, Harbor, and Pre-Camino Blessing 

I woke up to the delightful sounds of children in a schoolyard across the street from the Parador. Then, I enjoyed a hearty breakfast in the dining room overlooking the harbor.

The breakfast dining room had great views of the port

The breakfast dining room had great views of the harbor.

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Ferrol: Parador, Harbor, and Pre-Camino Blessing

Continued from A Coruña Mont San Pedro.

I took a bus at 2 p.m. from A Coruña to Ferrol, which cost seven euros and took about thirty-five minutes. It was full of teenagers and business people.  I was the only backpack-toting pilgrim. The bus driver was playing rock music quite loudly, but nobody seemed to mind. I found it amusing that a soundtrack from my youth had such appeal in this region of Spain. Most of the teenagers were wearing earbuds and fiddling with their phones. A few other passengers were dozing off. I gazed out the window and watched the world go by, as Foreigner, AC/DC, and Metallica serenaded us onward and upward. Ultreia would make such a great name for a rock band!

On my walk from the Ferrol bus station to the hotel,  I was thinking about how much I enjoyed A Coruña and wondering whether Ferrol would be as captivating.

Casa do Concello (Town Hall)

Casa do Concello (Town Hall)

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A Coruña Mont San Pedro

Continued from A Coruña Old Town.

After an epic day of walking thirteen miles around A Coruña, exploring its beaches, Tower of Hercules and old town, I slept well, then woke up to sunshine and the sounds of waves and seagulls on the beach, just across the street.

The view from my room

The view from my room

Breakfast at cafe next door

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A Coruña Old Town

Continued from The Tower of Hercules.

After exploring A Coruña’s beaches and the Tower of Hercules, I decided to hop on a local bus for a ride to the Ciudad Vieja (Old Town). A Coruña was once a medieval town, and the remains of some of the walls are still visible.  The huge Plaza María Pita, named after the woman who helped save A Coruña from the British forces, marks the center of town.

I don’t like war, but I love the story of María Pita! And I appreciate when cities honor the brave women who played an important role in history. So, who was María Pita?

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The Tower of Hercules

Continued from A Coruña Beaches.

As this map below shows, there are a lot of things to see and do in A Coruña. Click image to enlarge.

After I left the beach, I saw some nice fountains, an aquarium, and sculptures. Aquarium Finisterrae is rated #6 out of 79 things to do in A Coruña, according to TripAdvisor. But I couldn’t linger: the Torre de Hercules was beckoning me, so ultreia e suseia (onward and upward.)

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A Coruña Beaches

Continued from Getting from Paris to Camino Inglés.

Here’s a bird’s-eye view of A Coruña. Click the image below to expand.

Surrounded by water and steeped in history, A Coruña has a lot to offer! Photo credit:

On the far left you can see the Tower of Hercules, and along the bottom, a long stretch of beach. The port and marina are on the right, and the Old Town (Ciudad Vieja in Spanish, Cidade Vella in Galician) is situated to the left of the marina—complete with narrow winding streets to get lost in, old churches to pray in, a lively pedestrianized zone to stroll through, and plenty of bars to quench your thirst in (or satiate your hunger with  free tapas!). What’s not to love! I managed to pack all of this in on the same day that began in Paris before sunrise.

After settling into my hotel around 2 p.m., I was anxious to walk along the beach on my way to the Tower of Hercules, which I could see from my window.


View of the Tower of Hercules in the distance

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Getting from Paris to Camino Inglés

Planning how to get to your Camino starting point can be easy and fun with the variety of apps and websites available. My favorites are the Rome 2 Rio App for transportation, for accommodations, and Google Maps for research and city navigation.

A Coruña is one of the two Camino Inglés starting points, but it is only 75 km (47 miles) from Santiago. In order to get a Compostela certificate, you must walk at least 100 km, so the more popular starting point is Ferrol, 118 km (73 miles) from Santiago. I didn’t want to skip A Coruña because I had heard that it is an amazing place, so I worked it into my pre-Camino itinerary.

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