Continued from Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Stage: Padrón to Santiago
For all the modern amenities the Albergue Corredoiras in Padrón has, it lacks in the coffee maker department. Groggy pilgrims were taking turns using a small Italian-style stove-top coffee maker.
Cute kitchen, but they need more coffee makers
In the adorable-but-not-functional Ikea-like kitchen, I looked in every cupboard for a French press, hot water kettle, or even an American-style drip coffee maker, to no avail. I finally got my turn, made a stove-top pot of coffee, and shared it with the Aussies and they shared their milk with me. This coffee was enough to get me out the door. I knew I could get another caffeine fix later.
On my walk through Padrón there were detour signs. I did not think this would add much to the overall kilometers that day, but it ended up being the longest walk yet! Brierley’s guide showed 24.9 km for this stage, but my AllTrails app showed 27.4 km.
Continued from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Stage: Caldas de Reis to Padrón
After my fifth night in a municipal albergue, I was getting used to the routine of putting my earplugs in to sleep through the “snorchestra.” Municipal albergues are the cheapest accommodations on the Camino: I paid just five euros for the first three nights in Portuguese albergues, and six euros the last two nights after crossing over to Spain. That is just thirty dollars at our current 1.12 Euro-Dollar exchange rate (the best exchange rate I have ever seen!). There is a range of comfort to match every budget on the Camino. I chose to stay in municipal albergues for two reasons: (1) to meet other pilgrims on my short Camino, and (2) because that is one of the requirements of being a hospitalero (volunteer) on the Camino.*
I couldn’t help but wonder what pilgrim life was like on the other side, like staying in a private room with ensuite bathroom and real sheets. Sure I could tolerate the sleeping above a different snoring man each night, but I was getting tired of the odd bathroom situations. The albergue in Caldas had an awkward setup and was lacking in good shower and sink facilities. Everything was shoddy and wobbly. I was thinking about how this would have driven my husband crazy. He grew up working in his Italian grandfather’s hardware store and learned many skills from the tradesmen. He even fixed a toilet in an old hotel room we stayed at in New Orleans!
Albergues are all different, and some are a little on the grungy side. For the low price, you get what you pay for. Nonetheless, Caldas de Reis was a beautiful small village that I would like to return to someday and stay in the hotel with the private thermal baths. Below is a 360° video I shot on the old Roman bridge by the albergue and fountain.
Continued from Pontevedra: A Peregrina Paradise
Stage: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
After our wild night out with peregrinas at the Parador, Karin and I were both slow to get moving. The lobby of the albergue has an awesome map of the Camino Portugués on the wall, so we took a few photos.
Karin pointing to Pontevedra
The distance we have to go to Santiago
We started walking through town and at one point Karin said to me, “You walk faster than me. Go ahead.” Instead of taking this personally, I thought to myself, she’s right, I do walk fast. We got along great, but we didn’t walk at the same pace, and I like to stop and take photos whenever I have the whim. And that’s okay on the Camino – everyone should walk at their own pace. So, I responded, “Okay, I’ll probably see you again along the way.” Sure enough, we saw each other a few times throughout the day, and a few days later in Santiago. Continue reading
Continued from Walking Day 3: Redondela to Pontevedra
A Parador, pulpo, sidra, tapas, and a Camino-themed chapel. What more could a peregrina want?
I was glad I had decided to walk all the way to Pontevedra that day. When I checked into the albergue, I was surprised to see two of the five Italians I met on the first night in Ponte de Lima. They were early risers and must have walked more than 35 km a day to get this far. Speeding through the Camino is not my thing; I feel that walking 18 to 22 km a day is a distance I am comfortable with. I had just finished walking 22.5 km when I arrived at the Virgen Peregrina albergue in Pontevedra so I was ready to rest my body.
Virgen Peregrina albergue
Map of the Camino Portugues
Lobby and dining area
This albergue has two large dorm rooms with fifty-six bunk beds. When the hospitalero asked if I preferred a top or bottom bed, I said bottom please. “As everyone does,” he replied and walked me to a bed that was super close to other beds. In fact, a guy was sitting on my assigned bed and looking through his backpack. I dreaded the thought of sleeping in those tight quarters. I know that I would feel claustrophobic. Continue reading
Continued from Walking Day 2: Rubiaes to Valença
Stage: Redondela to Pontevedra (O Porriño stage skipped)
I woke up in the Valença albergue to find the other pilgrims looking a bit panicked and flipping through their guidebooks. The skies were gray, and a big storm was in the forecast. Alas, it’s not all sunshine and flowers on the Camino.
RENFE to the rescue!
I saw the same German guy I’d slept above in Rubiaes, Mike, and asked him what the concern was. He had walked this route before, and he told me about some detours around O Porriño; some people were talking of skipping that stage altogether.
Warning about Camino rerouting
I was bummed about the rain and didn’t feel like walking through Tui (having already enjoyed it the night before) or crossing the border bridge again. I too had seen the warning signs about route detours and even heard about arrows being removed to confuse pilgrims. I felt the need to skip this stage and avoid navigating through the mayhem in the rain. It would also allow me to arrive in Santiago on Friday, in time for the pilgrim mass at the cathedral. I had given myself the flexibility to skip a stage if needed. (see My Camino Portugués Stages)
Continued from Walking Day 1: Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes
Stage: Rubiaes to Valença 17 km
+ 11 km Valença fort to Tui for sightseeing and dinner, roundtrip
28 km total walking
The Rubiaes albergue was much more crowded than Ponte de Lima’s, so the room was very stuffy in the morning. When I cranked open the window next to my top bunk, I got a few nods of approval from the groggy people waking up. The metal bunk beds were a little squeaky, but I managed to get a decent sleep. I was so glad my sleep sack was treated with insect shield because a girl two bunks over was bitten during the night. She spotted a bedbug on her mattress and notified the albergue staff. Yikes! That was too close for comfort. I checked my mattress and bag liner and there were no signs of bugs. It seemed like a very clean and well run albergue. Below are a few photos.
Continued from Bom Caminho: A Ponte de Lima Jazz Serenade.
Stage: Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes
(additional 3 km due to a “Camino provides” situation described below)
Sunrise on my first morning of walking
On the first morning, I learned that the pilgrim lifestyle is early to bed, early to rise. Although I had earplugs in, I was woken at 6:30 by the rustling of plastic bags and loud whispering from three Spanish women a few bunks over. By the time I had dressed, the bigger co-ed dorm, occupied by the Italians and loud snorers, was empty. The only sign of life in the women’s dorm was a sleeping girl in the bunk bed between mine and the window, who shielded her eyes from the sunlight with her slender arm. Only that girl and two older French men were still at the albergue when I left.
A light rain was falling when I arrived in Ponte de Lima around 8 p.m. after my train and bus rides from Lisbon.
A lone kayaker gliding along the river
Approaching the beautiful arched bridge built by the Romans in 1125, I heard jazz playing. I wondered where the sound could be coming from, because the small village seemed rather quiet and empty of people. The music became louder as I got closer to a street light on the bridge, and I realized the jazz was coming from speakers concealed inside the lamppost! I was mesmerized by the beauty and the feeling of that moment—crossing a bridge and being serenaded by jazz. It was as if the Camino had rolled out a welcome mat and said, “Come here child; we’ve been expecting you. You are exactly where you need to be.” Continue reading
The logistics of getting to your Camino starting point should ideally be figured out in advance. It’s hard enough dealing with lack of sleep on a long flight and the jet lag without the worry of making more travel arrangements once you reach your destination. Fortunately, I was acclimated to Portugal’s time zone before I began my Camino, because I had already been touring the country for 11 days.
Wherever you plan to start your Camino, the Rome2Rio website is an invaluable resource for figuring out the best way to get from A to B. It will show you train and bus routes, taxi companies, and different transport combinations , as well as the costs involved. The Rome2Rio website works well and so does the iPhone App, and you can use it to research your journey beforehand or book transportation on the fly. As we know, there are many different Camino routes and starting points. This post is about my experience getting from Lisbon to Ponte de Lima.
Avenida Liberdade’s mosaic stone walkway was a nice way to begin.
The route I walked on the Camino Portugués Central is highlighted in red and the cities I stayed in are underlined on the map below.
* See below for a full map without highlights