Continued from Betanzos to Presedo.
By splitting the Betanzos-to-Bruma stage (28 km), the walk from Presedo was more manageable at 10 miles (16 km). However, it had the steepest climb yet, with an elevation gain of nearly 2,000 feet.
Leaving Presedo was pleasant. Even though it wasn’t raining, the air was cool and heavy with moisture. Perfect conditions for hiking the Camino.
I saw a fixer-upper, an orange slug, barking dogs, and happy cows, as I trekked southwest toward Hospital de Bruma. I took a few short video clips to capture the beauty and feeling of this stage.
At times I felt like I moved at a snail’s pace on this Camino, and I’m totally okay with that. There was so much beauty everywhere! When I saw this orange slug crossing the street, I paused for a moment and contemplated moving it over to the side.
Then I thought of the Prime Directive in Star Trek, which is a guiding principle to not interfere with developing alien civilizations. There weren’t any cars on that road, so I chose to not intervene. What would you have done?
The Camino continued through these lush rolling hills, farmlands, and vineyards.
There were a few of these large weathered signs showing a map and highlights of this stage, showing me where I was and how long I had to hike to get to Bruma.
I never had a problem with dogs on the Caminos Portugués or Inglés, but I passed by a few barkers that were guarding their homes, as they should. This video shows what it is like passing barking dogs on the Camino.
I saw a few of these hórreos, which are used to store grain above ground to deter rodents.
This area must get a lot of rain, which is why it is so lush and green. This was the muddiest patch I had to cross on the entire Camino Inglés. My shoes didn’t even get wet because of the dry footpath detour to the right.
It was mostly a nature walk in solitude, which I enjoy very much. I walk faster than Nancy, but because I take so many photos, we ended up seeing each other throughout the day. I saw Nancy at Casa Julia, a popular stop before the steepest part of this stage.
Please note that the Camino Inglés has been rerouted and no longer passes by Casa Julia. I heard the reason was to make the steepest segment easier. I found this part of the Camino one of the most beautiful. I was prepared with extra water, snacks, and the rest stop at Casa Julia. When I arrived, a young tattooed man was peeling a sink full of potatoes. I ordered my café con leche, used the Wi-Fi, and even charged my phone. It was a nice place to take a break. I feel bad for the family who runs this café, now that the pilgrims don’t pass by. I also heard that the new route is along a highway and that you need to be careful of traffic. I am grateful that I had none of that on my walk.
The latest guidebooks will have the route changes. I used these guides:
Camino Inglés in 6 Days or Less by Susan Jagannath Kindle version
Camino Inglés Guidebook by Johnny Walker, Confraternity of St. James
The route continues through rustic hamlets, and you see a glimpse of life here.
This marks the beginning of the big ascent.
I kept seeing this healing prayer card on stone way markers.
I took lots of rest stops, and got silly with selfies.
As soon as I finished the steep ascent, I found a picnic area with more map signs.
The healing prayer card I kept seeing on top of way markers throughout the day was placed here, so I decided to read it aloud.
I am a different person since my faith was rekindled on my first Camino. Now, I take the time to pray at these cruceiros, light candles in churches, and give thanks for the many blessings in life. This particular prayer was dedicated to someone very special to me. My hope is that this prayer may touch the heart of those in need of healing.
The way continues on an asphalt road alongside a big swath of tilled soil.
I took a rest and snack break here as my energy was in decline. Below is yet more evidence that the province of A Coruña loves metal rock.
Up next, Bruma, where two Caminos converge.